Tuesday, May 8, 2012

Rock and Roll: Dosa Buffet at Woodlands Indian Cuisine

If they ever found a way to make bacon out of tofu, I would so convert to vegetarianism. Until recently in Western cuisine, meat-free has tended to be flavor-free. Not so in Indian cooking, where vegetarians enjoy an exotic cuisine that fits within their dietary boundaries, one so full of enticing aromas and textures that you don't really miss the meat.

But to me, one of the benchmarks of great Indian cuisine is the bread.

The colors: Wednesday night veggie buffet at Woodlands
Growing up in what was then the culinary wasteland of Redondo Beach, The Clay Pit provided a passage to India at the South Bay Galleria. My most vivid memory was of the fresh baked naan, which my sisters and I thought was special because it was fresh bread, baked right in the food court. Samosa House is my go-to spot on the Westside, a Culver City institution that serves small plates of crispy and colorful chaat, fragrant mango lassi, and the namesake potato pockets. There I indulge in my favorite combo plate with wheat chapati, which I use to scoop up bites of spinach saag and stewed jackfruit. But at Woodlands in Chatsworth, the idea of fresh baked is taken to a new level with the Wednesday night all-you-can-eat dosa buffet.

The adventure starts at the buffet table, where you can fill your metal tray with a bit of everything. Woodlands, which describes the spread as "Indo- Chinese," includes a Manchurian dumpling in a savory red sauce called idly. The name also refers to small rounds of a white and spongy bread with a texture reminiscent of Ethiopian injera or Filipino puto. A fiery soy sauce-based vegetable stir-fry adds color to the tray, as does a salty lemon chutney and fresh mint sauce to drizzle onto crispy pappadums. 

Dosa-do: My tastebuds do an allemande left with the fiery mysore masala dosa.

But it is the fresh dosa, each made freshly to order, that is the star of the buffet firmament. Harvey and I started with masala dosa, a large crispy lentil and rice-based crepe filled with saffron-hued mashed potatoes, and a version of the same thing with sauteed onions. The second round included the whimsically-named paper masala dosa, which was a masala dosa made with rice flour only and the mysore masala dosa, which promptly set my mouth on fire and heightened my anticipation of dessert.

And what a dessert it was. Payasam is a gentle concoction of vermicelli noodles cooked in milk and enhanced by cardamom. I brought up two half- filled stainless steel cups of the pudding-like dish to the table, just in case we ended up not liking it. We loved it, but were too full of dosas to want more. 


Sweet relief: Payasam or kheer helped put out the smolder of the mysore masala dosa.



Saturday, April 21, 2012

Edible Book Festival at UCLA Provides Food for Thought

If you’ve ever wanted to eat your words – or for that matter, the words of Geoffrey Chaucer or Dr. Seuss – the opportunity arose at UCLA’s Powell Library where creative chefs and bakers presented literary-themed creations for the 4th Annual Edible Book Festival on April 5. A lucky 13 entries of literally digestible prose competed for the titles of Best Student Entry, Most Creative, People's Choice, and Best Tasting.


A bumper crop of mini-cupcakes depicts "The Edible Garden" by the editors of Sunset Magazine. Complete with pretzel plant stakes and garden gnomes fashioned from Starburst Fruit Chews, this tasty tableau by UCLA staff members Dana Iwata, Laura Juarez, and Elaine Sakamoto won the "People's Choice Award."

Metaphors for reading and books often have to do with eating. You say that you “devoured” a good read; a novel can be spicy or saccharine. Creative bakers and readers among students, faculty, and staff at UCLA entered their lit-inspired creations – mostly of the cake variety. If a major in the confectionery arts was made available among the university’s degree programs, these entries would have been at the top of the class. Undergrads Kimmie Eng and Hannah Bishop-Moser created a toothsome take on the children’s classic, “The Rainbow Fish.” “It was read to me all the time when I was little,” recalled Bishop-Moser. “It’s just a really sweet book about learning how to share. I thought it would make a really great entry too, because it’s so colorful and sparkly.”


Kimmie Eng shows off "The Rainbow Fish," which she created with Hannah Bishop- Moser. The baking buddies took the prize for "Best Student Entry."

Their pumpkin cake, which was topped with an ocean of cream cheese frosting, was decorated with cookie characters from “The Rainbow Fish.” In the spirit of the book’s message on sharing, Eng and Bishop-Moser compromised to suit the latter’s vegan dietary preferences.

“The cookies are vegan Mexican wedding cookies,” said Bishop-Moser, an ecology behavior and evolution major. “We made a compromise – half the entry is vegan and half isn’t.”

The Edible Book Festival, which is an international event co-created by late UCLA alumna Judith A. Hoffberg, is usually celebrated near the April 1 birthday of French gastronome Jean-Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, whose book, “The Physiology of Taste,” has been a definitive text for foodies of the 19th century and beyond.

Brillat-Savarin’s book describes every aspect of taste, including its relationship to the other four senses of sight, sound, touch, and smell. With that in mind, judges of the Edible Book competition really had their work cut out for them. Professor of information studies Johanna Drucker is an advocate for the physical artistry and history of the book, as adept at teaching the intricacies of an antique printing press as she is  expanding the world of digital scholarship. At the Edible Book Festival, however, her concerns were more immediate.

“Everything has to taste good, because one of the categories is “Best Tasting,” said Drucker. “I don’t want to eat anything that has artificial flavor. A lot of the stuff has some color in it that I’ll bet doesn’t come from the natural world. And some of the glitter gives me pause.” Despite her discerning palate, Drucker found the entries to be a feast for the eyes.

Armed with her appetite for creativity - and a bottle of Crystal Geyser to cleanse the palate - Professor Johanna Drucker prepares to judge the wide variety of entries.

“[The festival] makes people be creative with food,” Drucker noted. “It makes them have to think about how to use the materials of icing and cake as sculpture, as well as thinking about it as taste.”

All but two entries at the Festival were made of cake. There was an inviting tray of salted caramel patties that depicted the novel, “The Book of Salt.” And in the spirit of the Easter season, Tara Prescott, a lecturer in UCLA Writing Programs, created her homage to “The Hunger Games” and its characters with a basket of dyed hard-boiled eggs.

“I was in the Research Library yesterday and I saw a flier and thought, ‘That sounds like a lot of fun,’” Prescott said of her quick decision to enter the Festival. “I’m a big fan of “The Hunger Games,” and the film adaptation came out recently, so it’s been on my mind.”

The decision to make colored eggs occurred to Prescott who says she doesn’t bake, but loves to do things like decorate eggs. “I was thinking that there are a few egg references in the text,” she says. “The hard part will be breaking them to eat them. I’ll eat ‘Haymitch’ first, and save ‘Effie’ for last.”


Lecturer Tara Prescott shows off her literary style with colored eggs representing text and characters from "The Hunger Games" and "Moby Dick" tee.

Prescott says that the Festival gives participants “one way of translating from one medium into an unusual medium. Reading is an intellectual activity and this gives you a tangible, hands-on [activity].”

“It’s one thing for [an idea] to be in a book, but it’s another thing to bring it to life in your own way,” said Bishop- Moser. “It was nice to interpret the entire book in one scene, really look at all the pictures and the meaning, and see how we can put all that meaning in our entry and make it our own.”

Although readers don’t typically notice food references in literature unless they are foodies or very hungry, books themselves are actually full of them. From the briny pleasure of a clam chowder served in “Moby Dick” to the elegant banquet of quail and pomegranates in “Madame Bovary,” the consumption of food provides a story’s setting and breathes life into its characters. Prescott said that two of her favorite food references in literature were Leopold Bloom’s “very pungent [mutton] kidney” in James Joyce’s “Ulysses,” and Charles Swann’s madeleine in Marcel Proust’s “Remembrance of Things Past.” Drucker, however, takes a less literal approach when inventing her “edible book.”


“I’d be inclined to do something from “The Marriage of Heaven and Hell” by William Blake,” she said. “[I’d have] taste contrast- some really intense flavors with some gentle or mild flavors, because Blake’s Heaven and Hell aren’t really good and evil. They’re different kinds of forces of intensity.”

Graduate student Alethia Shih won "Most Creative" with her fondant- coated depiction of "The Cat in the Hat."


Ultimately for Drucker, the task at hand dictated that she would find the proof in the pudding – or the Dr. Seuss-inspired cake pops. When asked how the Festival entries illustrated the relationship between the senses and literature, she said, “I’ll have to tell you after I taste them – to see if the ‘Cat in the Hat’ really tastes like the ‘Cat in the Hat.’”


Another homage to Dr. Seuss: "The Lorax" speaks for the truffula trees - and for a student's baking talents.

 Bishop-Moser and Eng, who is an anthropology major, bake together often – and it showed. The “Rainbow Fish” entry was a real catch, in looks and taste, and won the prize for “Best Student Entry.” Their prize included official UCLA Library aprons for each of them, a certificate - and proof of their excellent baking skills, an empty cake platter.

The Edible Book Festival was one of the most lighthearted events I’ve seen on the UCLA campus so far, and definitely brought a touch of levity to the hallowed halls of the Powell Library. Letting ‘em eat cake conjures up a celebratory mood and brings people together to admire the creativity of students and colleagues, compare recipes, and even become inspired to bake something themselves.


In my short time at UCLA, one of the campus’s most outstanding features is the atmosphere of collegiality among the students. The environment fosters a bond of friendship that seems to form readily between people of all ethnicities and cultures. Perhaps the willingness to come together comes from the fact that the majority of them are out-of-towners, and want to get the most out of their college experience, or more significantly from the fact that they were all intelligent enough to make it to UCLA., but it’s heartening to see. And as in the case of the creators of “The Rainbow Fish” cake, it engenders a spirit of collaboration and creativity.

Chaucer's saucy Wyfe of Bath from "The Canterbury Tales" gets her just desserts.

“Our next project is going to be cinnamon rolls but instead of cinnamon, it’s going to be flavored with cardamom, rose, and almond, “said Bishop-Moser. “I saw the recipe and said, ‘This looks amazing, I have to make it with Kimmie.”

For a Daily Bruin video of UCLA's Edible Book Festival, click here.

Photos by Matt Palmer

Thursday, January 19, 2012

Happy New Year: Oshogatsu at JANM

Between the sigh of relief that is Boxing Day and the last burst of merriment at the Feast of the Epiphany, it seems as if the holidays never end. Although in Japan the New Year is observed on January 1, the celebration extends through the 6th with flurry of festivities known as Oshogatsu.


Mochitsuki wins my vote for "Best Food Preparation Method for Venting Frustration." Members of Kodama Taiko turn from pounding drums to pounding mochi.

At the Japanese American National Museum, New Year traditions such as the mochitsuki (traditional rice cake pounding ceremony) demonstration and a performance by Kodama Taiko were presented on Jan. 8 to celebrate the Year of the Dragon. In addition, an onigiri-making contest was held, judged by foodies Russ Parsons, editor of the LA Times Food section; Lynn Chen, blogger, The Actor's Diet and Keiko Nakashima, owner of Sunny Blue, the only shop in Southern California that serves freshly made omusubi.


A sandwich is a sandwich, but an omusubi is a meal: freshly made rice balls are a light but satisfying snack on Santa Monica's Main Street.

Keiko opened her shop in the summer of 2010 to immediate and resounding approval from both locals and tourists, many of whom had no idea what omusubi was. Sunny Blue's rice balls are made of rice wrapped in sheets of nori. The menu features traditional omusubi fillings such as salty fish, Japanese pickles and vegetables like hijiki, kombu, and shisho. There are also contemporary twists on Japanese home cooking, such as everyone's hands-down favorite, Miso Beef, which is made with caramelized onions and homemade miso sauce.


Keiko and her staff make Sunny Blue's omusubi fresh-to-order for fast food with a healthy, homemade taste.

Most of us know omusubi as those frigid rice balls filled with spicy tuna or ume (pickled plum) in the deli section at Marukai or the Spam-filled morsels that have graced many a Japanese American potluck. Keiko and her staff make their omusubi fresh to order; many of the fillings are comfortingly warm, as is the rice that is used. A couple of omusubi with side dishes such as tsukemono or edamame is a light meal or very satisfying snack, a welcome addition to the lackluster cuisine typical of Main Street.


I've just seen a face - and it was made out of rice. Entries for the onigiri-making contest at JANM's Oshogatsu.

Fast forward to Keiko's duties as a judge at the JANM Oshogatsu. The entries to the onigiri contest were a bit atypical, even for the incredibly creative founder of Sunny Blue. Kids of all ages created their onigiri with rice and nori, but that was where tradition ended. They were also provided with dried fruits, olives, herbs, orange peels, and mixed nuts, which they used to make a variety of faces and animals.


Keiko surveys the non-traditional entries to the onigiri contest, which showed a lot of imagination. I wonder if she discovered any new recipes for Sunny Blue!

Another "hands-on" exhibit at Oshogatsu was the amezaiku demonstration by Shan Ichiyanagi. The Los Angeles-based artist has been creating these traditional sugar sculptures for nearly 40 years. At JANM that day, he and nephew Taka Ichiyanagi gave a demonstration of the centuries- old confectionery art, to the delight of onlookers from 9 to 90.


Taka Ichiyanagi creates a sugar sculpture to celebrate the Year of the Dragon.

Shan Ichiyanagi recalled seeing street artists making amezaiku when he was growing up in Sapporo. After meeting Masaji Terasawa while both were attending an English class at Reseda Adult School in 1971, Ichiyanagi asked the renowned artist if he would teach him how to create amezaiku. After shadowing the master as he worked his magic at Disneyland, Ichiyanagi would then practice his own demonstrations on neighborhood kids, who benefited from the beautiful and tasty results.

Ichiyanagi and his nephew Taka, who has been making amezaiku for ten years, are now sought-after performers at not only Japanese cultural events, but at bar and bat mitzvahs across the country. A photo album lying on a table at their JANM appearance was full of celebrities enjoying the sweet life with the Ichiyanagis and their gorgeous creations. But the theatrical aspects of sculpting fantastic creations out of molten sugar syrup belie a simple truth.

“People like candy in general," said Ichiyanagi, "and I create something out of that."


Amezaiku master Shan Ichiyanagi shows off the dragon that Taka created on-the-spot, ushering in a sweet 2012 for all.